Posted by Pamusan
on July 17, 2026
It usually starts with a leftover fat quarter or a dozen matching favor bags you need by Saturday. The good news: learning how to make a drawstring bag (also called a cinch bag or drawstring pouch) is the easiest 20-minute DIY sewing project there is - one rectangle, two side seams, and a channel for the cord, no printed pattern required. By the end of this step-by-step tutorial you can sew one lined or unlined, glue a no-sew version, crochet one, and know when it is smarter to buy blanks in bulk.
What is a drawstring bag? (and what you can make)
A drawstring bag is a simple fabric pouch closed by a cord threaded through a channel - called the casing - sewn into the top edge. You pull the cord and the mouth cinches shut. You can make one from almost any fabric in about 20 to 30 minutes with basic sewing, glue a no-sew version, or crochet one - or start from ready-made cotton blanks from about $1.51 each.
The drawstring bag (also called a cinch bag or a drawstring pouch) is one of the oldest and most useful bag shapes around. Because the closure is just a gathered cord rather than a zipper, a button, or a snap, there is no hardware to install and almost nothing to go wrong. That simplicity is exactly why it is the project most sewing teachers reach for first: you practice a straight seam, a folded hem, and threading a cord, and you walk away with something you will actually use.
Once you know the method, the same rectangle scales to whatever you need. A small one becomes a jewelry or dice pouch; a medium one holds party favors, art supplies, or shoes; a large one turns into a laundry sack or a sling-style gym bag. Crafters use them for handmade soap and candles, parents pack them with birthday-party loot, and sports teams hand them out as cinch sacks. If you would rather skip the sewing entirely, our reusable cotton drawstring bags come blank and ready to decorate.
What you'll need: fabric, cord & tools
You do not need a fancy setup. A basic sewing machine, an iron, and a pair of fabric scissors will carry you through every sewn version here, and the no-sew route drops the machine too. Here is the short shopping list before you start your drawstring pouch.
Fabric (quick pick)
Medium-weight woven cotton is the sweet spot for a first bag: quilting cotton, cotton canvas, calico, or natural muslin all press crisply, hold a fold, and feed through a machine without fighting you. A single fat quarter (roughly 18 x 21 inches / 46 x 53 cm) is enough for one small-to-medium bag. Avoid slippery or very stretchy fabric for your first attempt - it shifts under the needle and makes the casing fiddly. We break down exactly what fabric is best for a drawstring bag - by weight and by use - in the next section, and our guide to personalized custom gift bags for every event goes deeper on cotton weights and printing.
Cord and tools
- Drawcord: cotton cord, paracord, ribbon, shoelace, or twill tape. You need roughly twice the bag width per cord, plus about 8 inches (20 cm) for the knot and pull.
- Sewing machine (or a needle and thread for hand-sewing small bags).
- Iron and ironing board - pressing each fold is the difference between a homemade-looking bag and a crisp one.
- Fabric scissors or a rotary cutter and mat.
- Pins or clips, a ruler, and a fabric marker or chalk.
- A safety pin or a bodkin for threading the cord through the casing.
What fabric is best for a drawstring bag?
Almost any woven fabric can become a drawstring pouch, but a few hold a fold better, fray less, and look crisper once they are cinched. The honest short answer: medium-weight woven cotton for most bags, lightweight muslin for tiny favor pouches, and heavier canvas for anything that takes a beating. Here is how the common choices behave so you can match the fabric to the job.
Cotton muslin and quilting cotton (best all-rounder)
Natural cotton muslin is the friendliest fabric for a first drawstring bag. It is light, presses to a sharp crease, and the casing folds without bulk - which is exactly why ready-made favor pouches are made from it. Quilting cotton and calico behave almost identically and come in every print, so a fully lined drawstring bag in two coordinating quilting cottons looks polished inside and out. For a small drawstring bag - jewelry, dice, soap, or party favors - a single layer of muslin is all you need.
Cotton canvas and duck cloth (for large bags)
When the bag has to carry weight - a gym bag, a shoe bag, a laundry sack, or a large drawstring bag for art supplies - step up to cotton canvas or duck cloth (roughly 8 oz / 220 gsm). It resists stretching at the cord channel, so a heavy cinch sack keeps its shape over years of use. Canvas is a little stiffer under the needle, so press your folds well and use a slightly longer stitch. Our 8 oz canvas drawstring backpacks use this same heavyweight cotton for exactly that reason.
Ripstop, nylon, and specialty fabrics
Ripstop nylon and other technical fabrics make a featherweight, packable cinch bag that shrugs off a light shower, but they are slippery to sew and best left until after your first cotton bag. Laminated cotton and oilcloth wipe clean for snack or toiletry pouches. Whatever you choose, skip anything very stretchy - knits warp at the casing and the cord drags. When in doubt, default to cotton: it is forgiving, eco-friendly, and the same fabric our blank pouches are cut from.
How much fabric do you need? (free pattern math & sizes)
This is where most beginners stall, so let us make it concrete. The rule for a single-piece (folded) drawstring bag is simple. Decide on your finished width and height, then cut one rectangle that is:
- Width of fabric = (finished width × 2) + 1 inch (for two 1/2-inch / 1.3 cm side seam allowances).
- Height of fabric = finished height + casing fold + a little ease. Add about 3 inches (7.5 cm) to the top for the casing and hem.
Here is a worked example for a roomy everyday bag with a finished size of about 10 x 14 inches (25 x 35 cm) - big enough for a paperback, snacks, or art supplies:
- Cut width: (10 × 2) + 1 = 21 inches (53 cm).
- Cut height: 14 + 3 = 17 inches (43 cm).
- So you cut one rectangle 21 x 17 inches, fold it in half, and sew. The seam allowance and the casing are already built into those numbers.
Prefer working from two separate panels (handy for a two-tone or lined bag)? Cut two rectangles, each (finished width + 1 inch) wide by (finished height + 3 inches) tall, and seam them around three sides. Use the sizing table below as a shortcut for the most common bag sizes - the cut measurements already include seam allowance and casing.
| Bag size | Finished size | Cut 1 rectangle (folded) | Cord length (each) | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Small pouch | 5 x 7 in (13 x 18 cm) | 11 x 10 in (28 x 25 cm) | ~18 in (46 cm) | Jewelry pouch, dice, coins, soap |
| Medium favor | 8 x 10 in (20 x 25 cm) | 17 x 13 in (43 x 33 cm) | ~24 in (61 cm) | Party favor pouch, gifts, snacks |
| Large project | 10 x 14 in (25 x 35 cm) | 21 x 17 in (53 x 43 cm) | ~30 in (76 cm) | Books, art supplies, shoe bag |
| Extra-large / gym | 14 x 18 in (36 x 46 cm) | 29 x 21 in (74 x 53 cm) | ~40 in (102 cm) | Gym bag, laundry, sports cinch sack |
How to sew a drawstring bag step by step (unlined)
Start here. An unlined, single-fabric bag is the fastest version and teaches every skill you need for the fancier ones. We will sew the medium favor size from the table (cut one rectangle 17 x 13 inches), but the steps are identical at any size. Set your machine to a straight stitch and use a 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) seam allowance throughout.
- Cut your fabric. Cut one rectangle to your chosen size from the table. Press it flat. If your fabric has a directional print, keep the design running the same way on both halves once it is folded.
- Finish the top edge. Along the two short ends (these become the bag's top opening), fold over 1/4 inch (6 mm) to the wrong side and press, then fold again and topstitch. This stops the casing edge from fraying later.
- Fold the bag right sides together. Fold the rectangle in half with the right sides facing each other, lining up the finished top edges. You now have a tube-shaped sandwich open at the top.
- Mark the casing gap. On both side edges, measure down about 1.5 inches (4 cm) from the top and place a pin. You will leave the fabric above each pin un-sewn so the cord can enter - that gap becomes the casing opening.
- Sew the two sides. Starting at each casing pin, sew down that side and across the bottom with your 1/2-inch seam allowance, pivoting at the corner. Backstitch at the start and end. The section above each pin stays open.
- Make the casing. Fold the whole top edge down to the wrong side by about 1.25 inches (3 cm) - enough to clear your cord - and press. Topstitch all the way around close to the folded edge to form the channel. The side gaps you left line up as the cord openings.
- Turn it right side out. Push the bag through the top opening so the right side faces out. Poke the bottom corners out gently with a chopstick or a knitting needle and press the whole bag flat.
- Thread the cord. Attach a safety pin to one end of your cord and feed it through the casing, around, and back out the same opening. Pull both ends even, knot the cord, and pull to cinch. Done.
That is a complete drawstring bag in eight steps. For a bag that opens evenly from both sides, repeat the threading with a second cord fed from the opposite opening, then knot each cord to itself - pulling both cinches the bag and gives you two handles.
One rectangle, two seams, and a channel for the cord - that is the entire secret to a drawstring bag.Pamusan Editorial Team
How to sew a lined drawstring bag (fully lined, step by step)
A fully lined drawstring bag hides every raw seam between two layers, so the inside looks as finished as the outside and the bag holds its shape better. Learning how to sew a lined drawstring bag is the upgrade that makes a handmade pouch look professionally finished. You will cut two outer panels and two lining panels - use a fun print for the lining and it becomes reversible-looking when the cuff folds down. The steps below take it from cut list to cinched cord.
Cut list for a lined bag
Using the medium favor size as the example, cut two outer rectangles and two lining rectangles, each 8.5 inches wide by 11 inches tall (finished width + 1/2 inch seam allowance on each side, finished height plus a top allowance). Keep the lining the same size as the outer so the layers match up.
- Sew each pair. Place the two outer panels right sides together and sew down both sides and across the bottom, leaving the top open. Repeat with the lining pair, but leave a 3-inch (7.5 cm) gap in the lining's bottom seam - you will use it to turn the bag later.
- Mark the casing gaps on the outer bag. On the outer bag's side seams, leave a 1.5-inch (4 cm) gap near the top un-sewn on both sides for the cord, exactly as in the unlined version.
- Nest the bags. Turn the outer bag right side out. Slip it inside the lining (which stays wrong side out) so the right sides are facing each other and the top raw edges line up. Pin around the top.
- Sew the top circle. Stitch all the way around the top edge, joining outer and lining into one ring.
- Turn through the gap. Pull the whole bag right side out through the gap you left in the lining's bottom seam. Then topstitch that gap closed, or slip-stitch it by hand.
- Push the lining inside and press. Tuck the lining down into the outer bag. Roll the top seam between your fingers so it sits crisp, and press.
- Sew the casing and thread the cord. Topstitch two parallel lines around the top - one just above and one just below the level of your side gaps - to form the channel. Thread the cord through as before and cinch.
Drawstring bag sizes: small pouch to large gym bag
Once you know how to make a drawstring bag at one size, every other size in the chart is just arithmetic - no new pattern required, because the whole method is built on a single rectangle. Whatever finished size you want, plug it into the same two formulas: cut width = (finished width × 2) + 1 inch for a folded bag, and cut height = finished height + about 3 inches for the casing. Then scale the cord and casing to match. Below are the two extremes - a tiny pouch and a full gym bag - so you can see how the same method stretches.
Sew a small drawstring bag
For a small pouch (think 5 x 7 inches for jewelry, dice, or a bar of soap), cut a single rectangle around 11 x 10 inches. Small bags are easy to hand-sew if you do not want to set up the machine - a simple running stitch or backstitch down the sides works fine at this scale. Keep the casing narrower (about 3/4 inch) and use a thinner cord or ribbon so the cinch sits in proportion. These finished pouches are exactly the size of our ready-made drawstring pouches if you would rather buy them by the pack.
Sew a large drawstring bag or gym sack
For a large bag (14 x 18 inches and up - laundry, sports kit, or a sling-style cinch sack), cut around 29 x 21 inches and widen the casing to about 1.5 inches so a chunky cord runs freely. For a backpack-style cinch sack, anchor the cord ends into the bottom corner seams as you sew them: feed each cord end into the corner before you close it, and stitch over it a few times. Pull the cords and the bag both cinches shut and forms two shoulder loops. If you need that gym-bag shape in quantity, our canvas drawstring backpacks are built for it in durable cotton canvas.
How to make a no-sew drawstring bag (fusible tape / fabric glue)
No machine, no needle, no problem. To make a no-sew drawstring bag, you swap every seam for fusible hem tape (a heat-activated adhesive web you press with an iron) or a line of fabric glue. It is the perfect rainy-afternoon project with kids, or a fast way to make a batch of simple favor pouches when you are short on time. Here is the no-sew method, step by step.
- Cut your rectangle to the same measurements you would use for a sewn bag (use the sizing table above).
- Hem the top edges. Fold each short top edge over twice, slide a strip of fusible tape into the fold, and press with a hot iron for the time on the tape packaging. This seals the casing edge.
- Bond the sides. Fold the rectangle right sides together. Lay fusible tape along each side and across the bottom, just inside the edge, leaving a gap near the top for the cord. Press firmly to bond.
- Form the casing. Fold the top edge down about 1.25 inches, tuck a strip of fusible tape inside the fold, and press all the way around - leaving the side gaps open as cord openings.
- Turn and thread. Turn the bag right side out, thread the cord with a safety pin, knot, and cinch.
How to crochet a drawstring bag (a quick alternative)
Prefer yarn to fabric? A crochet drawstring bag is a relaxing, fully no-sew alternative that needs only a hook, some cotton yarn, and a couple of basic stitches. It will not look like the sewn versions above, but the principle is the same: make a tube, then run a cord through holes near the top.
- Make the base. Start with a magic ring and work single crochet in the round, increasing each round until the flat circle is as wide as you want the bag's bottom.
- Build the sides. Stop increasing and crochet straight up in the round (single or half-double crochet) until the bag reaches your desired height. The stitches naturally form a tube.
- Add an eyelet round for the cord. Near the top, work a round of "chain 1, skip 1 stitch" to create evenly spaced holes - this is your built-in casing.
- Finish the top. Work one or two more plain rounds above the eyelets, then fasten off and weave in the ends.
- Thread the drawcord. Weave a length of yarn, ribbon, or a crocheted chain through the eyelet round, knot the ends, and pull to cinch.
A small crochet pouch in cotton yarn makes a lovely gift bag or a washable produce sack. If you want a free crochet pattern to follow stitch by stitch, any beginner "crochet drawstring bag" pattern using a magic ring and an eyelet round will follow these same five steps.
No time to sew? Blank & custom cotton drawstring bags in bulk
Sewing one bag is a joy; sewing a hundred identical ones is a project plan. When the count climbs, ready-made cotton drawstring bags and pouches save the cutting, the casing, and the late nights - and still give you a blank canvas to decorate or a printed logo done for you.
Making your own is satisfying for one bag, a gift, or a small batch. But if you are staring down 50, 100, or 300 matching bags for a wedding, a class, a market stall, or a sports team, the math changes fast - the fabric, the cutting, and the hours add up quickly. That is the honest moment to skip the sewing and start from ready-made blanks.
Our reusable bags are 100% cotton - no plastic - and come blank to decorate, dye, stamp, or embroider, or full-color printed to order with your design or logo. The pouches start from $1.51, the canvas backpacks come in two sizes, and every bag comes out identical without you cutting a single rectangle. Short on time, or need dozens of matching bags for an event? These four are the ones makers reach for most:
Blank Cotton Drawstring Pouch - 4"x8" Natural Muslin
100% natural cotton muslin with a drawstring cinch and self-fabric cord - the blank to stamp, dye, or embroider. No plastic, ready to decorate.
View Product
Custom Fabric Pouch 4"x5" - Print Any Logo or Image
A reinforced 4×5 cotton pouch you can print with any logo or image - the easiest buy-instead-of-sew pick for small projects, available blank or custom-printed in bulk.
View Product
Custom Cotton Drawstring Bags - 5 oz Cotton with Logo
5 oz / 140 gsm cotton cinch backpack with reinforced seams and a printed logo, in two sizes - the easy branded pick for teams and events.
View Product
Drawstring Backpack - 8 oz Canvas, Personalized
8 oz / 220 gsm cotton canvas with reinforced seams, in two sizes - the durable, gym-ready upgrade when a sewn bag won't hold up.
View ProductWant your finished design printed or your team's logo added rather than sewing each one yourself? Browse custom drawstring bags with your logo for printed runs ready to hand out.
DIY vs. buy: which make-method fits you?
| Method | Difficulty | Time per bag | Tools | Durability | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sew (unlined) | Easy | ~20-30 min | Machine, iron | Strong | One-off, gifts, learning |
| Sew (lined) | Medium | ~45-60 min | Machine, iron | Strongest | Keepsakes, clean interior |
| No-sew (fused / glued) | Very easy | ~15 min | Iron or glue | Light use only | Kids' crafts, quick favors |
| Buy blank or custom | None | Seconds | None | Strong, consistent | 50+ matching bags, events, teams |
Frequently asked questions
What is a drawstring bag?
A drawstring bag is a simple fabric pouch closed by a cord that runs through a channel (the casing) sewn into the top edge. Pulling the cord gathers the opening shut. Because there is no zipper or hardware, it is one of the easiest bags to make and one of the most versatile - the same shape works as a jewelry pouch, a party favor bag, a shoe sack, or a gym cinch bag depending on how big you cut it.
How do you make a drawstring bag step by step?
Cut one fabric rectangle to your chosen size; hem the two short top edges; fold the rectangle right sides together; leave a small gap near the top of each side for the cord; sew down both sides and across the bottom; fold the top down and topstitch to form the casing channel; turn the bag right side out; then thread a cord through the casing with a safety pin and knot it. The whole unlined version takes about 20 to 30 minutes.
How do you make a drawstring bag without sewing?
Use fusible hem tape or fabric glue in place of every seam. Cut your rectangle, fold and bond the top hems with an iron-on adhesive strip, then bond the sides and bottom the same way, leaving a gap near the top for the cord. Fold and fuse the casing channel, turn the bag right side out, and thread the cord. It is ideal for kids' crafts and quick favor bags, though fused seams are best kept to light use rather than heavy daily wear.
What fabric is best for a drawstring bag?
Medium-weight woven cotton is the easiest and most forgiving choice: quilting cotton, calico, cotton canvas, or natural muslin all press crisply, hold a fold, and feed cleanly through a machine. Lightweight muslin is perfect for small favor pouches, while heavier cotton canvas suits gym bags and laundry sacks that need to take a beating. Avoid very stretchy or slippery fabric for a first bag - it shifts under the needle and makes the casing fiddly.
How much fabric do you need for a drawstring bag?
For a folded single-piece bag, cut width = (finished width × 2) + 1 inch for seam allowance, and cut height = finished height + about 3 inches for the casing and hem. For example, a finished 10 x 14 inch bag needs one rectangle about 21 x 17 inches. A single fat quarter (roughly 18 x 21 inches) is enough for one small-to-medium bag, so you can make a pouch from a scrap or a remnant.
Do I need a sewing pattern to make a drawstring bag?
No. The rectangle is the pattern. Pick a finished size, apply the two cut formulas (or copy a row from the sizing table above), and you have a made-to-measure pattern for free - no printed PDF required. Note the measurements that worked so you can reproduce the same bag next time.
Is there a free drawstring bag pattern?
Yes, and you do not even need to download a free drawstring bag pattern PDF. Because a drawstring bag is built from a single rectangle, the two cut formulas in this tutorial give you a free, made-to-measure pattern at any size: cut width = (finished width × 2) + 1 inch, and cut height = finished height + about 3 inches. Copy a row from the sizing table for the most common small, medium, large, and gym-bag dimensions and you have a step-by-step drawstring bag pattern for free.
How do you sew a lined drawstring bag?
To sew a fully lined drawstring bag, cut two outer panels and two lining panels the same size. Sew each pair down the sides and bottom, leaving a turning gap in the lining and a small cord gap near the top of the outer seams. Nest the outer bag inside the lining with right sides together, stitch around the top, then pull everything right side out through the gap in the lining. Push the lining inside, press, and topstitch two parallel lines near the top to form the casing before threading the cord. The lining hides every raw seam for a clean interior.
What size should a drawstring bag be?
It depends on the job. A small drawstring bag around 5 x 7 inches suits a jewelry pouch, dice, or a bar of soap; a medium 8 x 10 inch bag works as a party favor pouch or gift bag; a large 10 x 14 inch bag holds books, art supplies, or a shoe bag; and a 14 x 18 inch or bigger bag becomes a gym bag, laundry sack, or sports cinch sack. Use the sizing table above to turn any of those finished sizes into the exact rectangle to cut.
What is a cinch bag, and is it the same as a drawstring bag?
Yes - a cinch bag is just another name for a drawstring bag, and a small one is often called a drawstring pouch. They all close the same way: a cord runs through a channel at the top, and pulling it cinches the opening shut. The "cinch bag" name is most often used for the larger, backpack-style version with two shoulder cords, like a gym or sports sack, but the construction is identical to the pouch you sew in this tutorial.
How do you make a no-sew or crochet drawstring bag?
For a no-sew drawstring bag, replace every seam with fusible hem tape or fabric glue: bond the top hems, sides, and bottom, leave a cord gap near the top, form the casing, then thread the cord. For a crochet drawstring bag, work a flat circle base in single crochet, build straight up into a tube, add a round of "chain 1, skip 1" eyelets near the top for the cord, finish with a plain round, then weave a drawcord through the eyelets. Both are fully no-machine alternatives - the no-sew version suits light use, while crochet makes a stretchy, washable pouch.
Whichever route you take, you now have a method that scales from a single handmade gift to a few hundred matching favors. Sew your own when you want the craft, and when the count gets big, order personalized drawstring bags printed with your logo - 100% cotton, two sizes, ready the moment you are.